For Autumn/Winter 2012-2013, Stéphane Rolland faithfully dwells on three integral components of his genuinely modern aesthetic: art, movement and wearability.

Renowned for citing modern art as inspiration, Rolland continues to explore innovative techniques for ultra-modern embellishment. With Paris’s most savvy craftsmen and visual artists embedding new and sophisticated materials into exquisitely hand-made garments, he brings a visionary twist to a 150-year old industry without unsettling the haute couture integrity. The outcome of this season’s collaborations includes silicone furs, rock crystal shoulder ornaments, and varnished Macassar Ebony belts. Suede-sheathed metallic objets pay tribute to the raw and versatile forms in Christina Jékey’s sculptures.

Evangelical about manipulating movement, each collection to date has shown how Rolland indulges his passion for bringing fabric to life with kinetic dynamism. This season it is gentle and elegant, caressing sensually like a warm breeze. Flowing and ethereal chiffon dresses with floor-sweeping sleeves and caped jumpsuits and tuxedos set the tone for a liberated and carefree mood. Fishtail skirts quiver with whimsical frayed organza appliqué. Verner Panton’s iconic lamps receive homage: avalanches of laser-cut chiffon emulate the cascading mother of pearl discs in his ‘Fun’ series and layered organza scales evoke the ‘Yamagiwa’ form.

Never entirely eclipsed by the high-impact design, wearability remains key for Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture. The catwalk creations are the very gowns making it into the private wardrobes of discerning clients. His thriving client base is testament to the inherent function and comfort, suiting their active lifestyles. Soft silk jerseys and lush cashmeres add a sense of controlled nonchalance to the overall allure.

Rolland also returns to another of his oft-visited themes: the protection of the female form as the ultimate symbol of grace. His trademark ‘cocoons’ morph this season into voluminous gazar spathes that sheathe the body, encasing narrower inner silhouettes.

The fluid curves in Alvar Aalto’s furniture concepts inspired the ergonomics of Rolland’s garments, with rounded angles and sweeping lines. The mellow influence of gently curling light-coloured wood, and his clean and airy architectural lines, can be sensed in this eleventh season. Pearly white, cedar blond and Havana beige, along with deep ruby, together emanate warmth for a solar winter of otherworldly harmony and glowing opulence.